Artificial grass in St. George lives or fails below the surface. The turf you see depends entirely on what lies underneath: the infill that props up the fibres, the base that keeps water moving, and the drainage system that prevents puddles, odor and premature wear. This guide walks you through every layer, from soil excavation to seam finishing, so you understand what separates a durable installation from one that disappoints within a season. Whether you are converting a lawn that has turned to dust in our Dixie heat, creating a dog run that stays clean, or preparing a yard for sale or a move-in, knowing how the ground is prepared and what materials go into it will help you ask the right questions and recognize quality work when you see it.
You will find detailed explanations of infill types and amounts, base preparation on St. George's sandy and clay soils, drainage design for our summer monsoon storms and very hot dry summers, and the finishing details that prevent seams from lifting and edges from peeling. At the end is a written specification checklist you should ask any turf installer, including us, to provide before work begins. Our role is to help you make an informed choice and to deliver exactly what we promise in writing.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material that sits on top of the turf backing, between and under the synthetic fibres. It serves multiple purposes: it props the blades upright so they look and feel natural, it protects the backing from ultraviolet light, it adds weight so the turf stays in place in wind, and it plays a role in drainage and moisture management. The most common infill families are silica sand, coated sand, zeolite, and specialty coated products formulated for specific conditions.
Silica sand is the foundational infill: fine, angular grains that lock into the turf backing and provide ballast. It is inexpensive and performs well in most residential applications, though the angular particles can retain more dust and are slightly harsher underfoot than rounded alternatives. Coated sand consists of silica grains rounded and often colored to match the turf or to reduce glare and heat reflection. The rounded shape feels gentler on skin and paws, and a light color can help moderate surface temperature on very hot days. Zeolite is a natural mineral with a porous structure that absorbs and neutralizes ammonia and other odors. It is commonly used in pet turf and dog run installations because it helps keep the area fresher longer, though it does not eliminate the need for regular cleaning and drainage. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under brand names such as Envirofill, are engineered to reduce bacterial growth, moderate heat, and provide odor control. These specialty products cost more but can be worthwhile in high-traffic pet areas or in yards where surface temperature is a concern.
Crumb rubber (recycled tire material) is used primarily in sports fields and athletic courts because it provides shock absorption and durability under heavy impact. It is not typical in residential yards because it can retain heat, odor, and moisture, and because it is heavier to install and remove. Any infill you choose should be specified by type and amount in writing before installation begins.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is measured in pounds per square foot, and the amount matters more than homeowners usually realize. A typical residential turf installation uses between 2 and 4 pounds of infill per square foot, depending on the turf product, fibre type, and intended use. Pet areas and playgrounds often call for infill at the higher end of that range to maximize cushioning and odor control. The infill serves as a scaffold: it holds the fibres upright so they do not mat down, it shields the backing from UV degradation, and it provides the weight and friction that keep the turf from shifting under foot traffic or wind. Too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts in cheap installations. A yard that receives only 1 to 1.5 pounds per square foot will look thin and worn within months, the backing will become visible and brittle, and drainage can actually worsen because there is nothing to help water move through the system evenly.
The right amount depends on the specific turf product you choose, the backing type, and how the yard will be used. A putting green needs precise infill for ball roll, while a residential yard has more flexibility. Before signing any contract, ask the installer to specify the infill type and the pounds per square foot in writing. If they cannot give you a number or they seem evasive, that is a red flag. A professional installer will know the product, will have calculated it for your specific yard, and will commit to it on paper.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The foundation under artificial grass is as important as the turf itself. The process begins with removal: the existing lawn, dead sod, roots, and any old turf must come out completely. Leaving organic matter underneath invites decomposition, settling, and odor problems that no amount of infill will fix. Once the old material is cleared, the ground is excavated to a depth that depends on the base material and the final grade. The goal is to create a stable, free-draining platform that sheds water away from the house and any structures, and that will not settle or develop low spots over time.
After excavation, a weed barrier (typically a landscape fabric) is laid to prevent weeds from growing up through the turf. This step is often skipped on a budget, but it saves headaches later. Next comes the free-draining base material, usually decomposed granite or crushed base rock, laid in lifts (typically 2 to 4 inches at a time) and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. The base must slope away from the house and pool, with a gentle grade of 1 to 2 percent so water does not pond. In areas where pets will use the turf or where heavy rain is a concern, an additional draining underlay or pad can be installed on top of the compacted base. This underlay adds cushioning, further improves drainage, and can help with odor management. Finally, the turf is laid on top, seamed, nailed, and infilled. On hard surfaces such as concrete patios, balconies, or rooftops, turf should never be glued flat to the slab. Instead, a draining underlay or pad is laid first, edge drainage is installed to channel water away, and the turf is secured around the perimeter so water can flow underneath and escape.
Base Prep on St. George Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
St. George sits on red sandy and clay soils with occasional gypsum pockets, laid over bedrock that ranges from sandstone to lava. These soils do not drain uniformly. Sandy areas shed water quickly, but clay and gypsum-rich soils can hold water and compact into hardpan, creating the very drainage problems that artificial grass is meant to solve. Base preparation has to account for this variability. In most yards, the first step is excavation deep enough to remove poor soil and create a level platform. The excavator grades the ground with a fall away from the house and any pool, typically a slope of 1 to 2 percent, so surface water does not collect against the foundation.
Once graded, the base is built up with decomposed granite or crushed base rock, compacted in lifts. Three to four inches of well-compacted base is typical for residential yards, though yards with very poor drainage or heavy clay may need deeper preparation. Compaction is critical: a plate compactor is run over each lift until the material is firm and will not settle under foot traffic. An uncompacted base is a common failure point. It settles unevenly, creating dips and soft spots where water pools, where odor develops, and where the turf begins to shift and separate. If your yard has a genuine water problem, drainage must be addressed first. This might mean installing a French drain, grading the yard more aggressively, or in some cases, it means the yard is not a good candidate for turf until the water issue is resolved. We will be honest about that assessment.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Drainage in artificial turf is a two-part system: the turf itself must allow water to pass through, and the base underneath must accept and move that water away. The turf's drainage capacity is determined by its backing and any perforations. Most modern turfs have a perforated backing with small holes that let water through quickly, typically rated at 15 to 30 gallons per hour per square foot. Some premium products use a fully permeable backing that allows even faster drainage, sometimes rated at 60 gallons per hour or more. On paper, these rates sound fast, but they are tested under laboratory conditions. In the real world, the limiting factor is usually what lies beneath the turf, not the turf itself. A fast-draining turf laid on an uncompacted or poorly graded base will still fail. Water will pond on the surface, infill will wash away, and odor will build up.
In areas where drainage is a real test, such as pet turf and dog runs or yards that experience heavy summer monsoon storms, the base preparation and an additional draining underlay or pad become essential. Underlays are porous materials, often made of recycled plastic or foam, that sit on top of the compacted base and below the turf. They add cushioning for comfort and play, they create an air gap that helps water move laterally away from low spots, and they can include antimicrobial or odor-control treatments. For patios and hard surfaces, an underlay also prevents water from pooling under the turf and creating a breeding ground for mold or odor. When you ask an installer about drainage, ask them to specify the turf's drainage rate in writing, and ask how the base and underlay work together to handle the water load your yard will experience.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that separate a professional installation from a quick patch job show up at the seams, edges, and finishing touches. Where two pieces of turf meet, a seam must be joined with seam tape and waterproof adhesive, applied underneath the backing so it is invisible from above. The two pieces are laid with the nap (the direction the fibres lean) aligned so the grain looks uniform across the seam. If the nap is reversed, light will reflect differently and the seam will be visible even from a distance. The tape and adhesive are applied carefully so the joint is watertight and will not separate under foot traffic or temperature changes. A visible seam or one that is peeling up is a sign of poor workmanship or inadequate adhesive.
Around the perimeter, the turf is secured with nails or staples driven at the correct spacing (typically every 6 to 12 inches) into bender board or a secured edge so the turf does not shift or curl. The edges are finished neatly: where the turf meets pavers or a patio, it is cut tight so water drains away and there is no gap for debris to collect. On a pool surround or a cool deck, the turf is cut precisely so the transition is clean and the underlying pad or base is not exposed. After all seaming and edging is complete, the turf is power broomed with a mechanical brush that stands the fibres upright, spreads the infill evenly, and gives the yard a finished, uniform appearance. A yard that has not been power broomed looks flat and uneven. These final steps take time and skill, but they are what make a turf installation look professional and last.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should receive a written specification from your turf installer that documents exactly what will be installed and how. This spec is your protection and your proof of what was promised. It should include the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the pounds per square foot, the base material (decomposed granite, crushed rock, etc.), the base depth and compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be used, the seam method and adhesive type, the edging material and method, cleanup and haul-off of old material, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years). The spec should also confirm that the work will be measured on site and that any price is based on that measurement.
A written spec is how you verify any turf installer, including us. It shows that the installer has thought through the job, understands the product, and is willing to stand behind the details. If an installer cannot or will not provide a spec, or if they offer only a vague estimate with a price per square foot and no product information, that is a strong signal to look elsewhere. We provide a detailed spec for every job, fully insured and committed to the materials and methods we name. For a free on-site measurement and estimate, or to discuss your specific project, contact us at (435) 375-4895. You can also visit our pricing page for ranges and to understand how we calculate costs.